Bakuchiol - is a meroterpene plant compound extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (babchi), a plant traditionally used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. It offers similar benefits to retinoids without the typical side effects (irritation, flaking, photosensitivity). Although structurally different from retinol, bakuchiol activates the same nuclear receptors (RARs), producing similar effects on gene expression. It induces the synthesis of type I, III, and IV collagen, improving firmness and elasticity; neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) protecting against oxidative damage; reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines, calming the skin; inhibits melanin production, reducing spots; and improves skin barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Action:
- Clinically proven anti-aging effect when applied to the skin (reversing the harmful effects of photoaging).
- Reduction of hyperpigmentation: Clinical studies have shown bakuchiol's ability to inhibit melanin synthesis.
- Antibacterial effect: Topical application of bakuchiol inhibits the growth of common bacteria on healthy skin, such as S. aureus and S. epidermidis, which can cause certain skin infections.
- Anti-inflammatory effect: Reduces levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Elevated levels of these cytokines are observed in aging skin due to chronic exposure to UVA and UVB radiation.
- Antioxidant effect: Bakuchiol has a proven ability to block free radicals, reducing metabolic oxidation that leads to skin aging.
Retinal - Clinical trials have indicated that the combination of Retinal, a natural metabolite of vitamin A that stimulates cell renewal and collagen production, with bakuchiol creates a powerful synergy that enhances its properties on skin cells and the skin barrier function without causing irritation.
Furthermore, when formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide, Retinal reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in the structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. This resulted in a reversal of clinical signs of aging with significant improvements in skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (−43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed after 28 days of nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of patients. Retinal offers many advantages over retinol, as it is one metabolic step closer to retinoic acid, which ultimately acts on the skin. In other words, compared to retinol, retinal:
- acts faster
- is 11 times more potent
- has antibacterial effects
- is less irritating
Advantages of retinal vs. other retinoids: It only requires one enzymatic step to convert to retinoic acid (retinol requires two), making it significantly more potent and faster-acting. Despite its high potency, it causes less irritation than medical retinoic acid. It possesses unique antibacterial properties among retinoids, beneficial for acne-prone skin. Visible results appear in 4-6 weeks vs. 8-12 weeks for conventional retinol. Retinal is 10-20 times more potent than retinol in in vitro studies.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) - Regulates sebum production, reduces redness, and improves skin tone (brightens the skin). In gel format, it has a calming, anti-inflammatory, and brightening effect. Topical application of niacinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, has been clinically proven to slow down the skin aging process and hyperpigmentation. It stimulates the synthesis of skin collagen and inhibits its degradation. Niacinamide is one of the most studied ingredients in cosmetic dermatology, with over 100 clinical studies demonstrating its effectiveness.
It strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 24%; regulates sebum production by up to 30% without drying; stimulates the synthesis of type I and III collagen and inhibits the MMPs that degrade it, reducing wrinkles and improving firmness; inhibits melanosome transfer, reducing hyperpigmentation and unifying tone; reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines, calming redness and irritation, improving retinal tolerability; and acts as a precursor to NAD+ and NADP+, essential cofactors in cellular DNA repair.
Tocopheryl acetate - Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E, which converts to vitamin E in the skin. It is a powerful antioxidant that, thanks to its lipophilic properties, protects cell membranes and skin cells from free radicals, slows down the aging process, regenerates the epidermis, and promotes hydration. It helps improve the surface structure and increases the skin's ability to retain moisture.
In the epidermis, vitamin E is the most important antioxidant providing cellular protection. It captures aggressive compounds that form as a result of UV radiation, medications, and pollutants on the skin, thereby preventing premature aging, with a special focus on reducing acute erythema and photoaging. Other important, clinically proven results of tocopheryl acetate use include improved fine lines around the eyes, roughness, luminosity, skin color, elasticity, density, collagen production, and overall skin appearance.
D-Panthenol - is an analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), a provitamin with significant proven properties. When applied to the skin, panthenol penetrates it and converts into vitamin B5. It intensely calms and hydrates, and accelerates the healing of skin micro-injuries after shaving. Its calming effect is especially beneficial for sensitive and irritated skin. It helps reduce redness and discomfort, providing immediate relief. It has the ability to attract and retain moisture, preventing its loss. Well-hydrated skin is not only softer and more elastic but also healthier and therefore more resistant to external aggressions. Additionally, D-panthenol increases lipid synthesis and epidermal differentiation. D-panthenol is non-comedogenic.
Hyaluronic acid compounds of different molecular weights - Provides intense hydration, smooths, and plumps the skin from the surface to the deepest layers. The four-level hyaluronic complex is a combination of different forms of hyaluronic acid that act at different skin levels to provide intense hydration and smoothness. These ingredients include sodium hyaluronate for superficial hydration, cross-linked hyaluronic acid polymer for long-lasting hydration, low molecular weight hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate for additional hydration and improved smoothness. QWADRUM has developed a unique hyaluronic acid complex containing molecules of different molecular weights in 5 different active compounds to ensure that its properties are activated in all layers of the skin:
- Acetylated sodium hyaluronate: ultra-high molecular weight
- Sodium hyaluronate: high molecular weight
- Sodium hyaluronate: high molecular weight cross-linked polymer
- Sodium hyaluronate: ultra-low molecular weight
- Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate: exceptionally low molecular weight
